Co-op Blog

a journey through Food Farm’s Inspiring History

Imagine a late summer’s day in August, where the morning rain has quenched the thirst of the soil, leaving glistening beads of water on lush produce greens. The fields hum with life as the broccoli and carrots, nurtured since early plantings, stand ready for harvest. Around the kitchen table, John, Janaki, and Dave gather, ready to weave a tapestry of stories that span five decades – stories of trials, triumphs, and transformation – stories that form the heart of Food Farm’s rich history.

The narrative begins in the fall of 1975 when John and Jane Fisher-Merritt found themselves dreaming of a life intertwined with the land. Inspired by a back-to-the-land ethos and Wendell Berry’s “The Unsettling of America,” they left Oregon behind and arrived at Holyoke, Minnesota, a homestead John lovingly dubbed a “hippie hideaway in the woods.” The early years were marked by humble beginnings, laying the stepping stones for what would eventually become Food Farm. Picture large broccoli crowns, carefully piled high in ice-laden turkey roasters, destined for sale on consignment. Envision ripe red tomatoes fetching a mere 10 cents per pound, with a seasonal harvest yield of about 1500 lbs. Those stories and memories of the devastating 1976 Holyoke house fire couldn’t extinguish the will to arise from the ashes. The Fisher-Merritts would make lemonade from lemons and salvage materials from the fire that would later become part of their new home’s porch, where Food Farm currently stands in Wrenshall, Minnesota. 

John’s voice resonates, “We moved from Holyoke to Wrenshall in 1988, guided by UMD Extension soil mapping insights.” It was here that the Fisher-Merritts could fully embrace the radical notion of organic farming. In a landscape dominated by industrial agriculture, their commitment to growing healthy food in harmony with nature’s rhythms was nothing short of revolutionary. Their dedication to living this way and to the Lake Superior region laid the foundation for Food Farm’s future.

Dave Hanlon, a steadfast presence for over 30 years, brings to life tales of John’s creativity and maverick spirit. Imagine the experimental construction of a hoop house – salvaged conduit bent with the weight of a tractor, shaped by ingenious curves. Another thread in the tapestry of resourcefulness and unwavering persistence.

By 1990, their dedication bore fruit, earning them certified organic status. This recognition solidified their commitment, established their leadership in the local organic food movement, and set the stage for their pioneering Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) venture. Janaki’s voice adds depth, “In the 20 years my folks had been farming, they hadn’t paid themselves a wage. We had a farm-direct arrangement called a Clientele Membership Club where people could come pick food at the farm for a lower price than retail.” The shift to a CSA format was a natural progression, offering a consistent income source for the Fisher-Merritt family. In 1994, the CSA and the name “Food Farm” were officially adopted. On the farm name, Janaki said, “The farm never had a name until we started the CSA—produce signs at the Co-op always just read “John’s” because everybody knew who he was, and he had worked at the Co-op since 1976. We chose the name Food Farm because producing basic sustenance for a community of people is actually very unusual in agriculture today.” In the late 90s and early 2000s, Food Farm extended its roots and values, fostering new farms in the Northland through mentorships, including relationships with Rick and Karola Dalen of Northern Harvest Farm and others.

Fast forward to 2010, when Janaki and his partner Annie Dugan assumed leadership, steering Food Farm towards new horizons. Their stewardship saw the completion of the root cellar in 2016, an embodiment of their commitment to preserving freshness with minimal inputs in Minnesota’s harsh climate.

As time moves forward, Food Farm – now tended by Janaki, John, Dave Hanlon, Teri Sackmeister, and their dedicated seasonal team – thrives. As boxes brimming with fresh bagged carrots are prepared for Co-op delivery, Dave, Janaki, and John intertwine their stories with the laughter of the next generation of Fisher-Merritts and friends just outside in the yard. Food Farm and the Co-op take great pride in nurturing and strengthening our enduring partnership between each other and the community. Since that inaugural delivery of tomatoes in 1976, Food Farm and the Co-op’s journeys have seen parallels of growth. Bringing local, organic food to the Northland is a remarkable achievement, considering our short growing season. Food Farm stands as an emblem of the enduring bond between land and community in a world that hurtles forward. Each harvest, each farmer uplifted through their mentorship, speaks to this timeless connection.

Today, John and Jane’s presence continues to grace the farm, offering support when needed. John imparts wisdom through farm tours and supports new growers, extending his knowledge to programs like the Fond du Lac Tribal & Community College Bimaaji’idiwn Extension Producer Training Program in Cloquet. As Janaki eloquently concludes, “In many ways, the commitment to continuous improvement and the desire to deepen our understanding of the land and the practices that support its productivity are more important than the milestones.” Through their story, we find inspiration to strengthen our relationship with the land and with each other.

Located approximately 20 minutes south of Ashland, Wisconsin, in the Chequamegon-Nicolet National Forest is the small, unincorporated town of Highbridge. This is the home of Hermit Creek Farm and owner-operators Landis and Steven Spickerman. Named for a nearby creek that is home to nesting Hermit Thrushes, this Certified Organic farm has been growing food in a “commercial” sense since 1993, when they began selling produce to Ashland’s Chequamegon Food Co-op. In 1995, they expanded to offer CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) shares that included produce, pork, and lamb.  

Whole Foods Co-op began purchasing from Hermit Creek Farm in 2017; they’ve quickly become one of our strongest Local producers. For the past five seasons, they’ve been the Co-op’s primary grower for green beans, green-topped red beets, green onions, bell peppers, chard, and yellow, sweet, and red onions. Their produce is some of the first locally grown spring and summer veggies we share with shoppers. 

This past spring, Hermit Creek received a $7,000 Grow Local Food Fund (GLFF) grant, a Whole Foods Co-op program that is funded by shopper round-up donations to support local growers and producers. The farm used the grant money to purchase an onion topper designed to mechanically remove the tops, roots, loose skin, and dirt from onions, a process previously done by hand. This project will help them fully realize their onion crop and expand it. 

Steven and Landis find fulfillment in farming: “We really like growing food for people and get a deep sense of satisfaction knowing that hundreds of families across our region sit down to wholesome food from our farm. We also like the variety of daily tasks and the challenge of working with a living system (soil, plants, critters, chemistry, biology, weather, climate). All of these variables make for an infinite set of challenges and likely scenarios that play out across our farm. With having farmed here for over 30 years, we feel we’ve seen nearly every challenge nature can throw at us, from flood (our road closed for four years after the 2016 rain event and subsequent flooding), late and early freezes, hail, wind, drought, etc.”   

Hermit Creek Farm’s attention to detail carries all the way to the shelf. Their beautifully bundled produce is easily visible with their distinctive bright yellow and green labels.   

As more and more Local seasonal offerings come to market, shoppers will find an extensive selection of Hermit Creek Farm offerings at both Whole Foods Co-op stores. Enjoy!  

At Hermit Creek Farm, everything Steven and Landis do is intended to improve the small part of the world they farm and inhabit. Three key phrases stand out as their daily mantra: 

We strive to create positive change 

Through farming practices, we are providing employees with a livable wage and a safe environment and delivering fresh organic food to the community. 

Our primary crop is our soil 

This effort began when they converted farmland used for growing conventional GMO corn to Organically certified fields. It continues through planting trees and pollinator habitats. Hermit Creek Farm focuses on building up and preserving the integrity of its land, which ultimately impacts the food they grow in positive ways. 

We believe food to be a language spoken by every culture 

By providing locally grown organic food, they help others partake in both cultural and biological conservation.  

the rise of local kombucha

Kombucha has become increasingly popular, captivating enthusiasts with tangy flavors and effervescence, as well as a myriad of potential health benefits. 

With this surge in popularity, some believe kombucha to be a new type of beverage. Kombucha is one of those things where what’s old is new again, with the earliest record dating back to over 2200 years ago. Chinese Emperor Qin Shi Huang discovered this fermented tea and consumed it to maintain his youth and vitality. His belief in kombucha’s benefits was so great that he ordered it to be sipped by the entire kingdom, and it became known as the “Tea of Immortality.” 

Kombucha, often called “booch,” is created through a two-step fermentation process. Starting with a base of sweetened brewed tea, a symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast (SCOBY) is introduced. The bacteria and yeast consume sugar, transforming it into various organic acids, most notably acetic acid, which lends kombucha its distinctive tartness. The fermentation process produces trace amounts of alcohol and carbon dioxide, causing natural effervescence. Kombucha is a refreshing alternative to traditional soft drinks.

Two local breweries, Bootlegger Brewing and Northstar Kombucha have become household names in the kombucha revolution. Let’s explore their contributions to the ever-growing kombucha scene, their unique offerings, and some of the processes used by both breweries.

Bootlegger Brewing

Bootlegger Brewing, situated in Spring Lake Park, Minnesota, boasts a rich history, bold flavors, and a commitment to providing high-quality kombucha. Owner Jake Haneman embarked on his booch journey in the early 2000s after being diagnosed with cancer. Looking for something to aid his immune system and understanding the health benefits of kombucha, Jake set out to create a unique drink. Coming from a family who always had a batch of kombucha brewing, Jake said that he relied on the “Alaskan hippie biker side of the family” for advice and support. He also relied on their brewing secrets and their 50-year-old SCOBY culture, which is the “mother” of all of Bootlegger Brewing’s kombuchas. After many gallons of trial and error, Bootlegger Brewing made their first delivery in 2016. Today, their beverages are available in over 200 locations. 

Bootlegger Brewery offers a diverse range of flavors in small-batch, handcrafted kombucha that cater to all palates. Jake takes pride in using only organic teas and fruit juices to infuse their kombucha with natural flavors and aromas.

Popular varieties, such as Lemony Lookout, Hearty Woodsman Ginger, Sturdy Girl Apple Cinnamon, and Legendary Lavender, are developed carefully, producing a balanced, refreshing drink that captivates the senses.

As demand increased, the company also grew. In 2022, Bootlegger Brewery acquired its own canning line and expanded its team to include six employees. Throughout the process, Jake has been committed to using sustainable practices, organic ingredients, and accessing local goods and services whenever possible.

Northstar Kombucha 

Northstar Kombucha, based in Northeast Minneapolis, has been producing high-quality, innovative kombucha since 2017. The commitment to quality and flavor that Dan and Christina Fischer brought to establishing the company continues to grow. 

Northstar Kombucha is made without additional sugar, sweeteners, or juices. It is proudly produced with local ingredients – many of which are procured from local farms – and is bottled using only US-made bottles. Rishi Tea and Botanicals, a Wisconsin-based tea company that you may recognize from the    Co-op’s shelves, provides the tea for Northstar’s recipes. 

According to Dan, sometimes changes to the product must be made to delight the customer and maintain a high-quality standard. Northstar is keeping to that standard by introducing exciting new flavors to the line-up, including Raspberry Hibiscus, White Peach, and the seasonal Mango Turmeric. Northstar Kombucha is an excellent choice if you’re looking for delicious and healthy kombucha products that cater to an adventurous palate.

In the ever-evolving world of kombucha, Bootlegger Brewing and Northstar Kombucha have made their mark with exceptional flavors. Whether you’re a kombucha connoisseur or a curious newcomer, be sure to seek out these local gems available at the Co-op.

A WINNER IS CROWNED

When it comes to barbecue, the sauce makes all the difference. In Minnesota, Triple Crown is outstanding in its field. Locally made, vegan, gluten-free and award winning, this is the sauce to add to your summer lineup.  

Triple Crown began years before it earned its name. In 1994, Richard Schaff entered a bottle of the barbecue sauce recipe he had crafted with precision into the Minnesota State Fair. The “Kansas City Style” sauce secured top honors as a Blue Premium Winner and did so again in 1997 and 2001. The recipe was a hit, and with the three-peat, Richard’s sauce had a name: Triple Crown. 

Armed with awards and fueled by passion, Richard began making and bottling Triple Crown in a small maple syrup processing facility in Wisconsin. His wholesale business took off when Richard began distributing through Co-op Partners Warehouse (CPW). CPW, a cooperatively owned distributor located in the Twin Cities, has been key to getting small local brands onto the shelves at independent co-op grocery retailers throughout the region. At CPW, Richard found access to new markets (and new barbecue enthusiasts) and he also found a pathway to keep the sauce flowing as he approached retirement. 

Andy Wright was one of Triple Crown’s early (and biggest) fans. Andy also worked at CPW where he helped elevate small brands and local and organic products. When Richard decided to retire, he sold Triple Crown to Andy. Andy knew the recipe was spectacular, and he also knew that he could take it to the next level by choosing organic ingredients.   

In 2012, Andy set out to move Triple Crown’s production back to Minnesota and to begin the work toward organic certification. Triple Crown found its new home, a family-owned co-packer in NE Minneapolis, which has been handling production ever since. By 2014 Triple Crown’s vegan, gluten-free barbecue sauce had earned Organic Certification and a huge following. Andy attributes Triple Crown’s success to shoppers at Whole Foods Co-op and other community-based grocery stores in the region: “Co-ops are what made this possible!” 

Triple Crown’s offerings now feature two additional flavors and international distribution. And their trophy case holds more than those original three blue ribbons: the Black Garlic sauce won the Good Food Award in San Francisco in 2019; and later that year the Original took the category prize the largest and most prestigious sauce contest in the USA, the American Royal.     

Triple Crown’s sauces effortlessly accompany a wide range of dishes, from grilled and smoked meats, such as ribs, chicken, and brisket, to vegetables, sandwiches, and even pizza; yes, pizza! Its ability to harmonize with various ingredients makes it a go-to-choice for professional chefs, backyard grill masters, and 3 am fridge raiders.  

Whole Foods Co-op is proud to offer Triple Crown on our shelves. We encourage you to try all three flavors. Each one is a winner! 

The Original  

Triple Crown Original boasts a well-balanced flavor profile of sweet and tangy, that will please even the most sophisticated of palates. A classic style barbecue sauce with a tomato base, its sweet notes provide a delightful hint of caramelization, while the tanginess cuts through the richness. Meanwhile, the smoky essence of campfire pairs exquisitely with everything from chicken nuggets to baby back ribs.   

Hickory Bourbon  

The Hickory Bourbon is a sauce with attitude. It has all the attributes of the Original, and the addition of a flavorful and aromatic taste that only bourbon can provide. Organic Featherbone Whiskey from the award-winning Journeyman Distillery of Three Oaks, Michigan teases the 6th sense where taste and scent meet. Excellent on everything, but we recommend drizzling it on a Native Wise Bison burger topped with Yker Acres bacon and served on a Positively 3rd Street bun. It is so good!

Black Garlic  

You need to try it! It is like running into an old friend that you have not seen in years, you instantly remember what you liked about them and then are blown away by the person they have become. You get the delicious taste of the Original sauce, and it is almost as if your taste buds pause before sending your brain the umami flavor signals sent by the ancient Asian ingredient of aged garlic, procured from Black Garlic North America of Wisconsin. Dab this sauce on anything and everything, it turns every culinary situation into a gastronomical experiment. 

sowing the seeds of success

As the world becomes more modern, where the pace of change often distracts us, it’s easy to overlook the small seeds of change that feed our communities. North Circle Seeds, a seed collective in Vergas, Minnesota, is dedicated to maintaining a bio-diverse collection of seeds gathered through a meticulous seed-saving process. North Circle Seeds is significantly impacting the preservation of genetic diversity and championing the cause of sustainable agriculture.

The story of North Circle Seeds begins with Zachary Paige, whose business journey started on a farm in Vermont in 2009. Intrigued by the farm’s organic practices, he felt there was a missing component and was left wondering why the farmers weren’t saving their seeds. This curiosity ignited a passion within him. Zachary left the farm and moved to Arizona to attend school, where he immersed himself in seed-saving techniques and the history of seeds, and conducted research into the significant loss of diversity caused by neglecting seed preservation. Zachary recalls, “It amped me up. That was in 2012, and ever since then, I’ve been on this train of wanting to save all the seeds that I grow.” As his collection of seeds grew, so did his commitment to preserving rare and endangered plant varieties. In 2019, he purchased 46 acres in Vergas, Minnesota and launched North Circle Seeds. In 2020, the farm earned organic certification.

North Circle Seeds is committed to promoting biodiversity. They focus primarily on open-pollinated varieties. Open-pollinated plants allow for natural cross-pollination, resulting in diverse genetic traits that can adapt to different environmental conditions. By preserving and sharing open-pollinated seed varieties, North Circle Seeds empowers farmers and gardeners to spread and foster biodiversity.

Zachary shares, “We’re trying to sell open-pollinated seeds, where people can save them independently. And we think that’s a good thing, not trying to have people buy seeds from us every year.”

The seed-saving process is intricate and fascinating. Most seeds are grown in Vargas, but North Circle Seeds has also built a regional collective of seed keepers. They partner with nine farms to grow and collect seeds, including The Boreal Farm, a 2023 Grow Local Food Fund recipient. By cooperating with multiple experienced seed keepers, the task of species diversity becomes significantly more manageable. It begins with careful crop selection, where each variety is chosen for its unique attributes, such as flavor, productivity, or adaptability to specific growing environments. Seeds are then harvested and processed, ensuring that only the highest-quality seeds make it into North Circle Seeds’ collection.

Once seeds are harvested, they undergo thorough drying and cleaning. This helps to eliminate any moisture that could cause mold or rot during storage. Cleaning the seeds involves winnowing, sifting, and hand-sorting to remove debris, damaged seeds, or chaff. This scrupulous process guarantees that only viable seeds are packaged and sent to stores and customers. 

Beyond its mission of preserving heirloom plants, North Circle Seeds actively engages in community programs and initiatives, sharing their expertise to promote environmentally conscious agriculture. They collaborate with local educational institutions and organizations, offering workshops, seed swaps, and resources about seed-saving techniques. The final stage of preparing the seeds for sale germinates another opportunity for outreach and engagement, as community members come together to hand-package the seeds. 

North Circle Seeds is a shining example of the importance of small seed companies in safeguarding biodiversity and fostering sustainable agriculture. With every seed they preserve and every gardener and farmer they empower, they sow the seeds of a more resilient and diverse food system—a legacy that could endure for generations to come.

The Boreal Farm, located in Rice Lake, Minnesota, is a USDA Certified Organic farm. Over four years ago they supplied North Circle Seeds with the core seeds for Sugar Daddy Snap Peas and have been growing seeds for them ever since. The Boreal Farm was a 2023 Grow Local Food Fund Recipient.