Co-op Blog

A BERRY SUSTAINABLE LOCAL MARSH 

The cranberry is one of the most unsung heroes of autumn and holiday feasts. The bright red fruit, with a combination of sour and sweet, invigorates the taste buds. When the mercury begins to fall, the cranberry harvest starts at one of our favorite cranberry farms, James Lake Farms. Just a couple of miles south of Three Lakes, Wisconsin, James Lake Farms is operated by John and Nora Stauner with their children, Ben and Sarah, and manager Tom Drozd, who pride themselves on their commitment to sustainable farming practices and providing the community with high-quality certified organic cranberries.  

The team at James Lake Farms can be rightfully proud of their cranberry operation. From their exceptional care that fuels the cultivated fields to their masterful cranberry harvesting, they ensure the longevity of their farm. The cranberry marshes were started in the late 1940s, and many of the current cranberry beds date from this time. The Stauner family began the process of organic certification for their 189-acre farm in 2006 and achieved certified organic status in 2018. John informed us, “Converting to organic was a business decision because we needed to find a value-added niche market, but it was also a decision driven by our desire to grow something that was good for people and the land on which it was grown.” James Lake Farms collaborates with MegaFood Vitamins, supplying them with the same great organic berries we have at the Co-op. John let us know that MegaFood is also a company that values preserving the natural quality of food and the land it’s cultivated on, making for a great partnership.  

A good farmer does everything they can to produce a harvest every year. A great farmer gets a yearly harvest while improving the land and taking time to care for all who dwell on the land, flora, and fauna included. Pollinators, the little creatures that fly, buzz, and walk, transferring pollen from flower to flower, are necessities the farm can’t do without. John shared a bit of his growing philosophy with us, “We use such things as composts for fertility and neem-oil-based products for pest control. I like to use the analogy that we are managing an ecosystem on the marsh in order to get as many cranberries as possible.” Collaborating with seasoned beekeepers, the Stauners ensure the well-being of native pollinators, turning delicate cranberry blossoms into the beloved teardrop-shaped fruit.  

There are different varieties of cranberries, called cultivars, each with unique characteristics. Depending on their type, cranberries can vary in size, shape, and even ripening time.  

Cranberries grow low to the ground, with long trailing stems that root at various points. To maintain healthy, upright growth and ensure good sunlight exposure, perennial cranberry vines must be replaced occasionally. The oldest vines at James Lake Farms have been replaced or “renovated” with industry-developed hybrids that grow harmoniously with organic farming practices. Three years of tending new plants are required before they develop a dense, even canopy that bears fruit.  

Harvesting cranberries can be a complex process that relies heavily on the weather due to the season’s unpredictability. A fascinating insight is that the reproductive buds of cranberries form on the plants in August of the previous year. This underscores the importance of sustainable farming practices. As the crew harvests the current crop, utmost care must be taken to avoid damage to the following year’s harvest. To ensure the best quality product, James Lake Farms conducts two harvests, fresh or frozen, depending on the cranberry’s destination. The first method involves gently plucking the berries directly from the vine, which is ideal for fresh produce markets. The harvester reaches into the vines and grasps a cluster of ripe berries. Ripe cranberries have air pockets that help them release from the stems. Plucking preserves the fruit’s freshness for an extended period.  

After collecting the first harvest of berries to sell fresh, the cranberry beds are flooded, and the berries rise to the surface, creating a vivid crimson sea of berries to be collected by a floating harvester. Floating is a picturesque and efficient method for harvest. James Lake Farm utilizes this method for berries they freeze.  

In recent years, James Lake Farms has been harvesting over 2 million pounds of organic cranberries per year. For reference, an empty 20 foot shipping container typically weighs just under 5,000 lbs. If you imagine 400 containers stacked together, the total weight would be approximately 2 million pounds. That’s a lot of cranberries! 

During the unique and awe-inspiring harvest, James Lake Farms offers tours and sells freshly picked cranberries; John and his family love to see cranberry fans in person. On Saturdays during October, join John to explore the marsh and have your pollinator and cranberry questions answered. 

NORTHLAND APPLES, CIDER, AND A NEW APPLE VARIETY 

Autumn is all about the local apple season. It’s when we get to experience fresh, crisp, sweet, and tart apples, just perfect for baking or snacking, along with locally pressed apple ciders from northland orchards!  

Northern Minnesota and Wisconsin have some of the best climates for growing apples. Even though apple trees can grow in almost any hardiness zone, apples grow best in climates where it’s moderate in summer with medium to high humidity and cold in winter. In fact, apple trees need cold weather (referred to as chill hours) to properly bud and flower to produce fruit. 

We are lucky to have multiple local orchards in the northland. Many of them supply the Co-op with apples, such as Paul’s Memorial Orchard in Two Harbors, MN, and Dixon’s Orchard in Cadott, WI. Other orchards, like North Wind Organic Farm, produce delicious, locally pressed apple ciders!  

Northwind Organic Farm

Tom Galazen and Ann Rosenquist of North Wind Organic Farm make delicious cider in their dedicated on-farm facility near Bayfield, WI. Tom and Ann’s goal has always been to grow nutrient-dense, chemical-free fruits and veggies for local and area consumption while respecting and enhancing the environment. Tom told us, “We press our apple cider because it is an excellent use for excess and/or cosmetically blemished apples and is a tasty and sought-after product. We like to offer our cider in canned quart jars because they are a safe, toxic-free container that can be returned or reused many times, thus saving energy and lowering environmental impact.” 

Another important environmental aspect for Tom and Ann is that their crops must be produced per organic requirements. Tom said, “No artificial fertilizers or chemical sprays are used on our crops. We avoid plastics like the plague, and our farm has been off the grid since the 1980s, using only solar and wind power. Environmental and climate impact are constantly a factor in our practices. In fact, that is what they feel is one of their primary difficulties; to continue growing food in an ever-changing and warming climate. 

Northern Harvest

Still new to the challenge of growing apples in our ever-changing northern climate but not new to the concept of growing delicious food without the use of artificial chemicals is Northern Harvest Farm! 

Many Co-op Owners are familiar with Northern Harvest Farm, based in Wrenshall, MN. Since 2005, they’ve been supplying Whole Foods Co-op with organic produce like kale, lettuce, cucumbers, beets, cabbage, cilantro, parsley, squash, zucchini, and, most beloved, carrots. In 2015, they “branched” out and began planting apple trees.   

Rick Dalen, owner and operator of Northern Harvest, told us, “We started with a fairly wide variety of cultivars, but over time, we narrowed our focus to varieties that have proven themselves in our northern climate.” Since 2022, Northern Harvest has been growing a significant apple harvest. Some of the varieties available will include Honeycrisp, Sweet 16, First Kiss, Triumph, Liberty, Frostbite, Snowsweet, and the Duluth Pink.  

The Duluth Pink was created by grafting scionwood, aka, twigs from an established tree, and in this case, an unknown variety of apple tree. The Duluth Pink apple has a fun background story. While Rick was pressing cider with friend Paul Steklenski (a.k.a. Cider Man), Paul exclaimed, “Rick, look at these apples, aren’t they pretty!?” and he agreed they were – they had a wonderful flavor and a vibrant, slightly pink color. While neither knew what kind of apples they were, Paul knew where he had picked the apples, and Rick got permission to collect some scionwood. With the help of Adam Kemp, owner and operator of Uff-da Organics, based in Wrenshall, MN., they grafted some trees and planted them in the orchard. “We tried and tried to find out what the variety was, without success,” Rick said, “so in the end, we decided to call it Duluth Pink. The Duluth Pink debuted in 2023 to great reviews!

So, whether it’s a delicious, locally pressed apple cider produced with an eye to a low environmental impact or a great new variety of locally-grown organic apples from one of our long-term produce providers, you’ll find an abundance of local apple love at Whole Foods Co-op! 

a journey through Food Farm’s Inspiring History

Imagine a late summer’s day in August, where the morning rain has quenched the thirst of the soil, leaving glistening beads of water on lush produce greens. The fields hum with life as the broccoli and carrots, nurtured since early plantings, stand ready for harvest. Around the kitchen table, John, Janaki, and Dave gather, ready to weave a tapestry of stories that span five decades – stories of trials, triumphs, and transformation – stories that form the heart of Food Farm’s rich history.

The narrative begins in the fall of 1975 when John and Jane Fisher-Merritt found themselves dreaming of a life intertwined with the land. Inspired by a back-to-the-land ethos and Wendell Berry’s “The Unsettling of America,” they left Oregon behind and arrived at Holyoke, Minnesota, a homestead John lovingly dubbed a “hippie hideaway in the woods.” The early years were marked by humble beginnings, laying the stepping stones for what would eventually become Food Farm. Picture large broccoli crowns, carefully piled high in ice-laden turkey roasters, destined for sale on consignment. Envision ripe red tomatoes fetching a mere 10 cents per pound, with a seasonal harvest yield of about 1500 lbs. Those stories and memories of the devastating 1976 Holyoke house fire couldn’t extinguish the will to arise from the ashes. The Fisher-Merritts would make lemonade from lemons and salvage materials from the fire that would later become part of their new home’s porch, where Food Farm currently stands in Wrenshall, Minnesota. 

John’s voice resonates, “We moved from Holyoke to Wrenshall in 1988, guided by UMD Extension soil mapping insights.” It was here that the Fisher-Merritts could fully embrace the radical notion of organic farming. In a landscape dominated by industrial agriculture, their commitment to growing healthy food in harmony with nature’s rhythms was nothing short of revolutionary. Their dedication to living this way and to the Lake Superior region laid the foundation for Food Farm’s future.

Dave Hanlon, a steadfast presence for over 30 years, brings to life tales of John’s creativity and maverick spirit. Imagine the experimental construction of a hoop house – salvaged conduit bent with the weight of a tractor, shaped by ingenious curves. Another thread in the tapestry of resourcefulness and unwavering persistence.

By 1990, their dedication bore fruit, earning them certified organic status. This recognition solidified their commitment, established their leadership in the local organic food movement, and set the stage for their pioneering Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) venture. Janaki’s voice adds depth, “In the 20 years my folks had been farming, they hadn’t paid themselves a wage. We had a farm-direct arrangement called a Clientele Membership Club where people could come pick food at the farm for a lower price than retail.” The shift to a CSA format was a natural progression, offering a consistent income source for the Fisher-Merritt family. In 1994, the CSA and the name “Food Farm” were officially adopted. On the farm name, Janaki said, “The farm never had a name until we started the CSA—produce signs at the Co-op always just read “John’s” because everybody knew who he was, and he had worked at the Co-op since 1976. We chose the name Food Farm because producing basic sustenance for a community of people is actually very unusual in agriculture today.” In the late 90s and early 2000s, Food Farm extended its roots and values, fostering new farms in the Northland through mentorships, including relationships with Rick and Karola Dalen of Northern Harvest Farm and others.

Fast forward to 2010, when Janaki and his partner Annie Dugan assumed leadership, steering Food Farm towards new horizons. Their stewardship saw the completion of the root cellar in 2016, an embodiment of their commitment to preserving freshness with minimal inputs in Minnesota’s harsh climate.

As time moves forward, Food Farm – now tended by Janaki, John, Dave Hanlon, Teri Sackmeister, and their dedicated seasonal team – thrives. As boxes brimming with fresh bagged carrots are prepared for Co-op delivery, Dave, Janaki, and John intertwine their stories with the laughter of the next generation of Fisher-Merritts and friends just outside in the yard. Food Farm and the Co-op take great pride in nurturing and strengthening our enduring partnership between each other and the community. Since that inaugural delivery of tomatoes in 1976, Food Farm and the Co-op’s journeys have seen parallels of growth. Bringing local, organic food to the Northland is a remarkable achievement, considering our short growing season. Food Farm stands as an emblem of the enduring bond between land and community in a world that hurtles forward. Each harvest, each farmer uplifted through their mentorship, speaks to this timeless connection.

Today, John and Jane’s presence continues to grace the farm, offering support when needed. John imparts wisdom through farm tours and supports new growers, extending his knowledge to programs like the Fond du Lac Tribal & Community College Bimaaji’idiwn Extension Producer Training Program in Cloquet. As Janaki eloquently concludes, “In many ways, the commitment to continuous improvement and the desire to deepen our understanding of the land and the practices that support its productivity are more important than the milestones.” Through their story, we find inspiration to strengthen our relationship with the land and with each other.