Author: Whole Foods Co-op

A BERRY SUSTAINABLE LOCAL MARSH 

The cranberry is one of the most unsung heroes of autumn and holiday feasts. The bright red fruit, with a combination of sour and sweet, invigorates the taste buds. When the mercury begins to fall, the cranberry harvest starts at one of our favorite cranberry farms, James Lake Farms. Just a couple of miles south of Three Lakes, Wisconsin, James Lake Farms is operated by John and Nora Stauner with their children, Ben and Sarah, and manager Tom Drozd, who pride themselves on their commitment to sustainable farming practices and providing the community with high-quality certified organic cranberries.  

The team at James Lake Farms can be rightfully proud of their cranberry operation. From their exceptional care that fuels the cultivated fields to their masterful cranberry harvesting, they ensure the longevity of their farm. The cranberry marshes were started in the late 1940s, and many of the current cranberry beds date from this time. The Stauner family began the process of organic certification for their 189-acre farm in 2006 and achieved certified organic status in 2018. John informed us, “Converting to organic was a business decision because we needed to find a value-added niche market, but it was also a decision driven by our desire to grow something that was good for people and the land on which it was grown.” James Lake Farms collaborates with MegaFood Vitamins, supplying them with the same great organic berries we have at the Co-op. John let us know that MegaFood is also a company that values preserving the natural quality of food and the land it’s cultivated on, making for a great partnership.  

A good farmer does everything they can to produce a harvest every year. A great farmer gets a yearly harvest while improving the land and taking time to care for all who dwell on the land, flora, and fauna included. Pollinators, the little creatures that fly, buzz, and walk, transferring pollen from flower to flower, are necessities the farm can’t do without. John shared a bit of his growing philosophy with us, “We use such things as composts for fertility and neem-oil-based products for pest control. I like to use the analogy that we are managing an ecosystem on the marsh in order to get as many cranberries as possible.” Collaborating with seasoned beekeepers, the Stauners ensure the well-being of native pollinators, turning delicate cranberry blossoms into the beloved teardrop-shaped fruit.  

There are different varieties of cranberries, called cultivars, each with unique characteristics. Depending on their type, cranberries can vary in size, shape, and even ripening time.  

Cranberries grow low to the ground, with long trailing stems that root at various points. To maintain healthy, upright growth and ensure good sunlight exposure, perennial cranberry vines must be replaced occasionally. The oldest vines at James Lake Farms have been replaced or “renovated” with industry-developed hybrids that grow harmoniously with organic farming practices. Three years of tending new plants are required before they develop a dense, even canopy that bears fruit.  

Harvesting cranberries can be a complex process that relies heavily on the weather due to the season’s unpredictability. A fascinating insight is that the reproductive buds of cranberries form on the plants in August of the previous year. This underscores the importance of sustainable farming practices. As the crew harvests the current crop, utmost care must be taken to avoid damage to the following year’s harvest. To ensure the best quality product, James Lake Farms conducts two harvests, fresh or frozen, depending on the cranberry’s destination. The first method involves gently plucking the berries directly from the vine, which is ideal for fresh produce markets. The harvester reaches into the vines and grasps a cluster of ripe berries. Ripe cranberries have air pockets that help them release from the stems. Plucking preserves the fruit’s freshness for an extended period.  

After collecting the first harvest of berries to sell fresh, the cranberry beds are flooded, and the berries rise to the surface, creating a vivid crimson sea of berries to be collected by a floating harvester. Floating is a picturesque and efficient method for harvest. James Lake Farm utilizes this method for berries they freeze.  

In recent years, James Lake Farms has been harvesting over 2 million pounds of organic cranberries per year. For reference, an empty 20 foot shipping container typically weighs just under 5,000 lbs. If you imagine 400 containers stacked together, the total weight would be approximately 2 million pounds. That’s a lot of cranberries! 

During the unique and awe-inspiring harvest, James Lake Farms offers tours and sells freshly picked cranberries; John and his family love to see cranberry fans in person. On Saturdays during October, join John to explore the marsh and have your pollinator and cranberry questions answered. 

NORTHLAND APPLES, CIDER, AND A NEW APPLE VARIETY 

Autumn is all about the local apple season. It’s when we get to experience fresh, crisp, sweet, and tart apples, just perfect for baking or snacking, along with locally pressed apple ciders from northland orchards!  

Northern Minnesota and Wisconsin have some of the best climates for growing apples. Even though apple trees can grow in almost any hardiness zone, apples grow best in climates where it’s moderate in summer with medium to high humidity and cold in winter. In fact, apple trees need cold weather (referred to as chill hours) to properly bud and flower to produce fruit. 

We are lucky to have multiple local orchards in the northland. Many of them supply the Co-op with apples, such as Paul’s Memorial Orchard in Two Harbors, MN, and Dixon’s Orchard in Cadott, WI. Other orchards, like North Wind Organic Farm, produce delicious, locally pressed apple ciders!  

Northwind Organic Farm

Tom Galazen and Ann Rosenquist of North Wind Organic Farm make delicious cider in their dedicated on-farm facility near Bayfield, WI. Tom and Ann’s goal has always been to grow nutrient-dense, chemical-free fruits and veggies for local and area consumption while respecting and enhancing the environment. Tom told us, “We press our apple cider because it is an excellent use for excess and/or cosmetically blemished apples and is a tasty and sought-after product. We like to offer our cider in canned quart jars because they are a safe, toxic-free container that can be returned or reused many times, thus saving energy and lowering environmental impact.” 

Another important environmental aspect for Tom and Ann is that their crops must be produced per organic requirements. Tom said, “No artificial fertilizers or chemical sprays are used on our crops. We avoid plastics like the plague, and our farm has been off the grid since the 1980s, using only solar and wind power. Environmental and climate impact are constantly a factor in our practices. In fact, that is what they feel is one of their primary difficulties; to continue growing food in an ever-changing and warming climate. 

Northern Harvest

Still new to the challenge of growing apples in our ever-changing northern climate but not new to the concept of growing delicious food without the use of artificial chemicals is Northern Harvest Farm! 

Many Co-op Owners are familiar with Northern Harvest Farm, based in Wrenshall, MN. Since 2005, they’ve been supplying Whole Foods Co-op with organic produce like kale, lettuce, cucumbers, beets, cabbage, cilantro, parsley, squash, zucchini, and, most beloved, carrots. In 2015, they “branched” out and began planting apple trees.   

Rick Dalen, owner and operator of Northern Harvest, told us, “We started with a fairly wide variety of cultivars, but over time, we narrowed our focus to varieties that have proven themselves in our northern climate.” Since 2022, Northern Harvest has been growing a significant apple harvest. Some of the varieties available will include Honeycrisp, Sweet 16, First Kiss, Triumph, Liberty, Frostbite, Snowsweet, and the Duluth Pink.  

The Duluth Pink was created by grafting scionwood, aka, twigs from an established tree, and in this case, an unknown variety of apple tree. The Duluth Pink apple has a fun background story. While Rick was pressing cider with friend Paul Steklenski (a.k.a. Cider Man), Paul exclaimed, “Rick, look at these apples, aren’t they pretty!?” and he agreed they were – they had a wonderful flavor and a vibrant, slightly pink color. While neither knew what kind of apples they were, Paul knew where he had picked the apples, and Rick got permission to collect some scionwood. With the help of Adam Kemp, owner and operator of Uff-da Organics, based in Wrenshall, MN., they grafted some trees and planted them in the orchard. “We tried and tried to find out what the variety was, without success,” Rick said, “so in the end, we decided to call it Duluth Pink. The Duluth Pink debuted in 2023 to great reviews!

So, whether it’s a delicious, locally pressed apple cider produced with an eye to a low environmental impact or a great new variety of locally-grown organic apples from one of our long-term produce providers, you’ll find an abundance of local apple love at Whole Foods Co-op! 

a journey through Food Farm’s Inspiring History

Imagine a late summer’s day in August, where the morning rain has quenched the thirst of the soil, leaving glistening beads of water on lush produce greens. The fields hum with life as the broccoli and carrots, nurtured since early plantings, stand ready for harvest. Around the kitchen table, John, Janaki, and Dave gather, ready to weave a tapestry of stories that span five decades – stories of trials, triumphs, and transformation – stories that form the heart of Food Farm’s rich history.

The narrative begins in the fall of 1975 when John and Jane Fisher-Merritt found themselves dreaming of a life intertwined with the land. Inspired by a back-to-the-land ethos and Wendell Berry’s “The Unsettling of America,” they left Oregon behind and arrived at Holyoke, Minnesota, a homestead John lovingly dubbed a “hippie hideaway in the woods.” The early years were marked by humble beginnings, laying the stepping stones for what would eventually become Food Farm. Picture large broccoli crowns, carefully piled high in ice-laden turkey roasters, destined for sale on consignment. Envision ripe red tomatoes fetching a mere 10 cents per pound, with a seasonal harvest yield of about 1500 lbs. Those stories and memories of the devastating 1976 Holyoke house fire couldn’t extinguish the will to arise from the ashes. The Fisher-Merritts would make lemonade from lemons and salvage materials from the fire that would later become part of their new home’s porch, where Food Farm currently stands in Wrenshall, Minnesota. 

John’s voice resonates, “We moved from Holyoke to Wrenshall in 1988, guided by UMD Extension soil mapping insights.” It was here that the Fisher-Merritts could fully embrace the radical notion of organic farming. In a landscape dominated by industrial agriculture, their commitment to growing healthy food in harmony with nature’s rhythms was nothing short of revolutionary. Their dedication to living this way and to the Lake Superior region laid the foundation for Food Farm’s future.

Dave Hanlon, a steadfast presence for over 30 years, brings to life tales of John’s creativity and maverick spirit. Imagine the experimental construction of a hoop house – salvaged conduit bent with the weight of a tractor, shaped by ingenious curves. Another thread in the tapestry of resourcefulness and unwavering persistence.

By 1990, their dedication bore fruit, earning them certified organic status. This recognition solidified their commitment, established their leadership in the local organic food movement, and set the stage for their pioneering Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) venture. Janaki’s voice adds depth, “In the 20 years my folks had been farming, they hadn’t paid themselves a wage. We had a farm-direct arrangement called a Clientele Membership Club where people could come pick food at the farm for a lower price than retail.” The shift to a CSA format was a natural progression, offering a consistent income source for the Fisher-Merritt family. In 1994, the CSA and the name “Food Farm” were officially adopted. On the farm name, Janaki said, “The farm never had a name until we started the CSA—produce signs at the Co-op always just read “John’s” because everybody knew who he was, and he had worked at the Co-op since 1976. We chose the name Food Farm because producing basic sustenance for a community of people is actually very unusual in agriculture today.” In the late 90s and early 2000s, Food Farm extended its roots and values, fostering new farms in the Northland through mentorships, including relationships with Rick and Karola Dalen of Northern Harvest Farm and others.

Fast forward to 2010, when Janaki and his partner Annie Dugan assumed leadership, steering Food Farm towards new horizons. Their stewardship saw the completion of the root cellar in 2016, an embodiment of their commitment to preserving freshness with minimal inputs in Minnesota’s harsh climate.

As time moves forward, Food Farm – now tended by Janaki, John, Dave Hanlon, Teri Sackmeister, and their dedicated seasonal team – thrives. As boxes brimming with fresh bagged carrots are prepared for Co-op delivery, Dave, Janaki, and John intertwine their stories with the laughter of the next generation of Fisher-Merritts and friends just outside in the yard. Food Farm and the Co-op take great pride in nurturing and strengthening our enduring partnership between each other and the community. Since that inaugural delivery of tomatoes in 1976, Food Farm and the Co-op’s journeys have seen parallels of growth. Bringing local, organic food to the Northland is a remarkable achievement, considering our short growing season. Food Farm stands as an emblem of the enduring bond between land and community in a world that hurtles forward. Each harvest, each farmer uplifted through their mentorship, speaks to this timeless connection.

Today, John and Jane’s presence continues to grace the farm, offering support when needed. John imparts wisdom through farm tours and supports new growers, extending his knowledge to programs like the Fond du Lac Tribal & Community College Bimaaji’idiwn Extension Producer Training Program in Cloquet. As Janaki eloquently concludes, “In many ways, the commitment to continuous improvement and the desire to deepen our understanding of the land and the practices that support its productivity are more important than the milestones.” Through their story, we find inspiration to strengthen our relationship with the land and with each other.

Located approximately 20 minutes south of Ashland, Wisconsin, in the Chequamegon-Nicolet National Forest is the small, unincorporated town of Highbridge. This is the home of Hermit Creek Farm and owner-operators Landis and Steven Spickerman. Named for a nearby creek that is home to nesting Hermit Thrushes, this Certified Organic farm has been growing food in a “commercial” sense since 1993, when they began selling produce to Ashland’s Chequamegon Food Co-op. In 1995, they expanded to offer CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) shares that included produce, pork, and lamb.  

Whole Foods Co-op began purchasing from Hermit Creek Farm in 2017; they’ve quickly become one of our strongest Local producers. For the past five seasons, they’ve been the Co-op’s primary grower for green beans, green-topped red beets, green onions, bell peppers, chard, and yellow, sweet, and red onions. Their produce is some of the first locally grown spring and summer veggies we share with shoppers. 

This past spring, Hermit Creek received a $7,000 Grow Local Food Fund (GLFF) grant, a Whole Foods Co-op program that is funded by shopper round-up donations to support local growers and producers. The farm used the grant money to purchase an onion topper designed to mechanically remove the tops, roots, loose skin, and dirt from onions, a process previously done by hand. This project will help them fully realize their onion crop and expand it. 

Steven and Landis find fulfillment in farming: “We really like growing food for people and get a deep sense of satisfaction knowing that hundreds of families across our region sit down to wholesome food from our farm. We also like the variety of daily tasks and the challenge of working with a living system (soil, plants, critters, chemistry, biology, weather, climate). All of these variables make for an infinite set of challenges and likely scenarios that play out across our farm. With having farmed here for over 30 years, we feel we’ve seen nearly every challenge nature can throw at us, from flood (our road closed for four years after the 2016 rain event and subsequent flooding), late and early freezes, hail, wind, drought, etc.”   

Hermit Creek Farm’s attention to detail carries all the way to the shelf. Their beautifully bundled produce is easily visible with their distinctive bright yellow and green labels.   

As more and more Local seasonal offerings come to market, shoppers will find an extensive selection of Hermit Creek Farm offerings at both Whole Foods Co-op stores. Enjoy!  

At Hermit Creek Farm, everything Steven and Landis do is intended to improve the small part of the world they farm and inhabit. Three key phrases stand out as their daily mantra: 

We strive to create positive change 

Through farming practices, we are providing employees with a livable wage and a safe environment and delivering fresh organic food to the community. 

Our primary crop is our soil 

This effort began when they converted farmland used for growing conventional GMO corn to Organically certified fields. It continues through planting trees and pollinator habitats. Hermit Creek Farm focuses on building up and preserving the integrity of its land, which ultimately impacts the food they grow in positive ways. 

We believe food to be a language spoken by every culture 

By providing locally grown organic food, they help others partake in both cultural and biological conservation.  

the rise of local kombucha

Kombucha has become increasingly popular, captivating enthusiasts with tangy flavors and effervescence, as well as a myriad of potential health benefits. 

With this surge in popularity, some believe kombucha to be a new type of beverage. Kombucha is one of those things where what’s old is new again, with the earliest record dating back to over 2200 years ago. Chinese Emperor Qin Shi Huang discovered this fermented tea and consumed it to maintain his youth and vitality. His belief in kombucha’s benefits was so great that he ordered it to be sipped by the entire kingdom, and it became known as the “Tea of Immortality.” 

Kombucha, often called “booch,” is created through a two-step fermentation process. Starting with a base of sweetened brewed tea, a symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast (SCOBY) is introduced. The bacteria and yeast consume sugar, transforming it into various organic acids, most notably acetic acid, which lends kombucha its distinctive tartness. The fermentation process produces trace amounts of alcohol and carbon dioxide, causing natural effervescence. Kombucha is a refreshing alternative to traditional soft drinks.

Two local breweries, Bootlegger Brewing and Northstar Kombucha have become household names in the kombucha revolution. Let’s explore their contributions to the ever-growing kombucha scene, their unique offerings, and some of the processes used by both breweries.

Bootlegger Brewing

Bootlegger Brewing, situated in Spring Lake Park, Minnesota, boasts a rich history, bold flavors, and a commitment to providing high-quality kombucha. Owner Jake Haneman embarked on his booch journey in the early 2000s after being diagnosed with cancer. Looking for something to aid his immune system and understanding the health benefits of kombucha, Jake set out to create a unique drink. Coming from a family who always had a batch of kombucha brewing, Jake said that he relied on the “Alaskan hippie biker side of the family” for advice and support. He also relied on their brewing secrets and their 50-year-old SCOBY culture, which is the “mother” of all of Bootlegger Brewing’s kombuchas. After many gallons of trial and error, Bootlegger Brewing made their first delivery in 2016. Today, their beverages are available in over 200 locations. 

Bootlegger Brewery offers a diverse range of flavors in small-batch, handcrafted kombucha that cater to all palates. Jake takes pride in using only organic teas and fruit juices to infuse their kombucha with natural flavors and aromas.

Popular varieties, such as Lemony Lookout, Hearty Woodsman Ginger, Sturdy Girl Apple Cinnamon, and Legendary Lavender, are developed carefully, producing a balanced, refreshing drink that captivates the senses.

As demand increased, the company also grew. In 2022, Bootlegger Brewery acquired its own canning line and expanded its team to include six employees. Throughout the process, Jake has been committed to using sustainable practices, organic ingredients, and accessing local goods and services whenever possible.

Northstar Kombucha 

Northstar Kombucha, based in Northeast Minneapolis, has been producing high-quality, innovative kombucha since 2017. The commitment to quality and flavor that Dan and Christina Fischer brought to establishing the company continues to grow. 

Northstar Kombucha is made without additional sugar, sweeteners, or juices. It is proudly produced with local ingredients – many of which are procured from local farms – and is bottled using only US-made bottles. Rishi Tea and Botanicals, a Wisconsin-based tea company that you may recognize from the    Co-op’s shelves, provides the tea for Northstar’s recipes. 

According to Dan, sometimes changes to the product must be made to delight the customer and maintain a high-quality standard. Northstar is keeping to that standard by introducing exciting new flavors to the line-up, including Raspberry Hibiscus, White Peach, and the seasonal Mango Turmeric. Northstar Kombucha is an excellent choice if you’re looking for delicious and healthy kombucha products that cater to an adventurous palate.

In the ever-evolving world of kombucha, Bootlegger Brewing and Northstar Kombucha have made their mark with exceptional flavors. Whether you’re a kombucha connoisseur or a curious newcomer, be sure to seek out these local gems available at the Co-op.